We crossed the border for this one, but I’m not sure Suffolk will mind! We recently packed up the car and headed to Thorpeness – a ridiculously pretty little village on the coast that my parents had been raving about. They’d visited recently and suggested we all go together for a day out. So The Chap, my parents, my in-laws and I set off from Norwich to see what all the fuss was about.
It took about an hour and twenty minutes by car, on a really pretty route through the Suffolk countryside and into Leiston, before arriving at Thorpeness itself. There’s plenty of parking when you get there – a mix of on-road spots and a public car park (£8 for the day). We chose the latter, then strolled into the village.
First impressions?
Utterly gorgeous.
Think Arts and Crafts houses with mock-Tudor timbers, unusual chimneys, cottage gardens bursting into bloom, and a huge man-made lake (The Meare) at the centre of it all. All this, just a stone’s throw from the beach – which is pebbly, yes, but still very picturesque.
But Thorpeness hasn’t always looked like this.
In fact, it was transformed in the early 20th century by Scottish barrister and railway magnate Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie. His vision was to turn the fishing hamlet into a fantasy holiday village for the well-to-do. He built mock-Tudor and Jacobean-style houses, a country club, tennis courts and that iconic House in the Clouds – a disguised water tower designed to blend into the whimsical skyline.
The lake, known as the Meare, was dug out by hand and inspired by Peter Pan, with little islands dotted throughout named after characters from the story. Today it’s all part of Thorpeness’s quirky, storybook charm and covered in rowing boats.
Back to the day itself – we met up with the parents and kicked things off with a quick cuppa at The Kitchen Café. It was heaving, but we managed to nab a table outside in the sunshine. The food looked tempting – I had a serious case of breakfast envy watching plates pass by.
From there, we wandered round the village, stopping to admire the almshouses, which are full of character. And of course, we paid a visit to the House in the Clouds – it looks just as surreal in real life as it does in photos.
The House in the Clouds, Thorpeness
Originally built in 1923 as a water tower, the House in the Clouds was cleverly disguised to fit with the village’s storybook style. Rather than leave a utilitarian structure on show, Ogilvie had it clad in timber and made to look like a charming, five-storey cottage perched high above the trees. Today, it’s a holiday home, and one of the most recognisable buildings on the Suffolk coast. You can see it from all around the village – it really does look like a house that’s floating up into the sky.
The Dolphin, Thorpeness
We broke for lunch at The Dolphin, the local pub. It was busy (a good sign on a Sunday), but the service was friendly and efficient. Portion sizes were generous – always appreciated – and the food hit the spot. I had a beef sirloin roast and there was more than I could manage. There’s a lovely beer garden, though we ended up sitting inside after the skies opened.
Thorpeness Beach
Before we left Thorpeness, I couldn’t resist a quick paddle. I’m glad I did. The beach is wonderfully quiet thanks to its pebbly stretch, and the view along the coast is lovely. Looking back inland, there’s not a modern building in sight – it feels like stepping back in time. The water was absolutely freezing, of course, but that’s British summer for you!
The whole day had a peaceful, laid-back feel. Thorpeness is quiet but full of charm. It’s definitely family-friendly, with little footpaths and benches dotted about, and handy public loos close by. You could easily spend the whole day ambling, eating and admiring the views.
Would we go back? Absolutely. It’s a day out for couples, families, or anyone who enjoys a gentler pace and a beautiful backdrop – with just a hint of whimsy.
